Thank you for purchasing a holster pattern from Adams LeatherWorks – we sincerely appreciate your business! This instruction guide is intended to walk you through the process of using our patterns and building your very own holster! We understand you may have many questions along the way – please don’t hesitate to contact us if you need additional assistance!
I haven’t had a chance to complete the text-based portion of this tutorial page, but the following video should show you the basic steps to building your own IWB2 style holster. The first part of the video focuses on designing the pattern, and the remainder is a high-speed look at how I built a mock-up from the pattern. I did not focus on applying dye, finish, etc., but those steps are covered in some of my other videos (most of those steps are covered in my free 3-part video).
- DOT Snap (Cap, Socket and Stud – I don’t use their Posts, but you might want to have some on-hand – if so, get the longer post length, which can be ground shorter if necessary – or just buy both lengths…)
- Leather Washer (I just cut a circle out of leather, about 3/4″ diameter, and punch a hole in the center just large enough to fit over the snap stud)
- This helps the holster slide over the edge of your pants easier
- It’s not necessary to edge and burnish the leather washers, unless you really want to, but I do advise at least dipping them in your acrylic sealer for a couple seconds, as this will help stiffen the washer to minimize crush, as well as obviously protecting it from moisture like the rest of the holster
- You may also wish to dye the washer to match the holster color prior to applying the acrylic sealer
- 6-32 x 1/4″ 3-prong T-Nut (some people prefer to use the next size larger than this – 8-32 x 1/4″ I believe, but my patterns aren’t designed to use the larger hardware)
- Zinc-plated http://www.mcmaster.com/#90975a007/=ny3wqe
- Stainless http://www.mcmaster.com/#90973a400/=ny3x3k
- If you’re using thin leather or single layers of leather (for example, if you’re burying the t-nut between the leather, instead of attaching it from the back of the holster) you will need to trim the prongs shorter so they don’t penetrate all the way through the leather – wire snippers work just fine
- 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Undercut Head Phillips Machine Screw, 6-32 Thread, 1/2″ Length from McMaster-Carr (get 8-32 x 1/2″ if you get the larger t-nut)
Press-N-Snap (Optional, but recommended)
To install the snaps, I purchased the Press-N-Snap tool from Rochford Supply. They sell a bench mount that works pretty well, and I would suggest buying it – it will help to hold the press in a vertical position so you can focus on aligning your directional snaps. The dies that come with the press should work fine for Line 24 snaps, but you will need to either modify the dies, or buy another set that works with the directional DOT snaps (I’m not sure what the part number is for the DOT dies). The modified die works fine on line 24 snaps.
If you’d like to visit the manufacturer’s website, they are located at http://www.pressnsnap.com/.
Setter & Anvil (Budget oriented, but difficult to use)
If you prefer to save your pennies, you’ll need to purchase a snap Setter and Anvil. They work fine, but the post on your caps will tend to bend over a bit when you hammer the cap’s post onto the snap socket. You may also find it necessary to punch a tiny slit in the leather large enough for the snap socket’s metal lip to bite into the leather (this lip, or tooth, helps to prevent the socket from rotating, which is part of what makes the snap directional).